Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Pto. Escondido, Oaxaca


So we've been here a couple of weeks and the place is starting to grow on us, as it happens, we may come back for a year and see what happens. We have a killer view from where we are staying of the huge swells that throw surfers around on playa zicatela. We have tried to surf at the point, down from zicatela, but even small waves are really fast and powerful here. The thing is that there's always a 8 or 10 ft. wave that creeps in every 10 to 15 minutes. There are a couple of REALLY nice little cove beaches that are better for swimming on the other side of town that we drive to sometimes, one of which there is a kids surf tournament going on. When little kids shred at the point, where you can't even paddle out, its pretty frustrating. Everything takes time right?
One of the best things about being here is that there is an abundance of cheap eats. The euro-italian influence here means that you can get away from the typical seafood plates and mexican dishes that are offered along the coast. Of course we cook most of our meals, the market here is great, but when you can get a good meal for a few bucks or so its a bit easier. Buying fresh fish at the market is the way to go, duh!?! The good fish here are red snapper and tuna, while in other places tuna has been more rare. I assume its sashimi grade, but haven't eaten it raw here yet.
Another good thing is that people speak Spanish here, even the tourists, at first, then usually if you have English as common ground it will go back and forth just for practice sake. We've been taking language classes lately at a little hillside school overlooking the beach. I need more practice and am polishing the skills I already have, while Karlie is learning grammar, even though she can already speak Spanish well for a guera del norte.
Yesterday we were hangin with some fiends and then I got to play drums with them. We had a little jam session and it went well, keys, bass and me behind the kit. Their drummer is gone for a few weeks and we may even play out before Karlie and I leave. Their style is a mixture of latin, reggae, funk, and rock. Estoy feliz.
Otherwise its been hot during the day with pleasant breezy nights, the rain is coming soon we hope as we are seeing more and more clouds. Puerto has apparently made an attempt to keep out corporate businesses, even in a town of 40K, so you really feel like your totally in Mexico, no 7-elevens, wal-mart(oh yes, they got em) or taco bell, or whatever. Also its a bit remote here, there's an airport close, but Oaxaca city is on the other side of the mountains, 7 hard hours, while Acapulco is also just as far up the coast. When you get down here you get a little more of a central america feel. Oaxaca and Chiapas have more indigenous people than any other states in Mexico and are also the poorest, shocker right? I won't go on. The shake up in Oaxaca city last year affected the area financially as well as culturally and only time will tell. More later, lovin y'all!

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

W.H.F.,Camping, and more Kayaking,Read on!


Hola! 3months of travel without regular amenities has given way to a Wild Hair Phase!!! Long, wild, unkept hair that's made us realize how attached we were to our stylists. Who knew? Maybe well actually get hair cuts soon. We are NOT the hippies you are looking for!

Many miles down the road were finally in Oaxaca. We had a stay in Lagunas de Chacahua, taking it easy, eating the freshest seafood imaginable. Since we last wrote we were just beginning to get used to a slooooooooow Mexican pace--1st camping on a SWEET beach side cliff on a tiny little beach area in southern Jalisco:peace and quiet, amazing views, countless shooting stars--oh but they can get slower. Things slowed down a little more by the time we hit the coast of Michoacan. Michoacans coast is mostly unspoiled and undeveloped and we camped in a "town" called Maruata(where we were the only gringos)and thus started a small string of adventures:
-petty theft,-rat infested cabaƱa,-Karlie totally ill and puking nonstop,-more attempts at surfing(MAN WE SUCK!),-getting stuck out on a bike with a broken crank whose PEDAL FELL OFF!,-learning to deal with bats, -making new friends and contacts...These and other adventures included stays in Nexpa, Saladita and then Troncones. Each town fantastic in its own way.

After all that we picked up the pace and hung out in the quaint, colorful city of Zihuatanejo. We had a good time there and enjoyed the vibe very much and visited Ixtapa too. Its too bad the beaches in Zihua are polluted, otherwise its great and the highlight was eating some terrific sushi,authentically prepared by a Japanese elder. Hooray!

Keeping on with our April travel mode, next stop:Acapulco. We stayed just outside the city in a scruffy, not so nice area called Pie de la Cuesta. We day tripped into the city and all in all found out what Karlie already knew, Acapulco kinda sucks! So we were eager to jet down south after just a couple of days there and a full day of driving brought us at last to Oaxaca. We were glad to be back on turtle speed on the beach at Chacahua.

Lagunas de Chacahua, a national park only accessible by boat, it's even more remote there than Yelapa and far less populated and touristy. Similar to Maruata:largely undeveloped, nothing to do but breathe the ocean air, lay in a hammock, and smile,smile,smile. Although we did have plenty of super fun kayaking adventures 1st at the spot where we camped and then some mangroves outside of Zihua as well as the immense Lakes at Chacahua.

So all of this driving has brought us at last to Puerto Escondido,Oax. Originally this is where we thought we may want to stay more permanently although now were so undecided! Currently torn between the Puerto Vallarta area or back to the states to our own Pacific Coast or kickin it here. Trying to stay open minded though we hope to see what sort of opportunities may be in store for us here. The universe holds the hidden truths and the adventures carry on. We feel blessed to be able to spend so much time alongside this magical coast. Thanks for reading friends!

Observations: observaciones sobre mexico


The passing game has got to be the most popular sport behind soccer. People will pass you on the highway or anywhere else, and on either side sometimes, just for some status in the line of cars. It is so machismo it aint funny, but ladies are guilty as well. Both will risk their life just to gain a few cars and then slow down for the speedbumps that are everywhere or get off the road for a taco! People coming the other way are expected to slow down and you are expected to let someone back in line instead of being in a wreck. We´ll just keep going with these: If you are too wasted to drive or walk you can send your 8 yr old kid to the tienda to get you more beer! Laws- 18 to drink and also to drive, yeah right! Laws-rules???? seem optional. Rice and beans together are regional, believe it or not, we are in black bean land now and the rice seems to be their friend, thank ya jesus! Its impossible to buy a bad tasting orange! If you don´t like pineapple, you need help! Chili and lime on everything, try it! Every band is a boy band sort of, they may be viejos though! Valentina hot sauce rules! It´s available in Texas I know. The sound of the tortilleria machine is haunting in the early morning, but the product is the perfection of corn! duh!?! and we can´t surf, but neither can you!